Identify and Eradicate Red Spider Mites

They are tiny, almost invisible, and yet they are every plant parent's nightmare. Do you notice yellowing leaves, a "dusty" look that keeps coming back, and fine, very fine spider webs? You are probably facing an invasion of red spider mites (which aren't spiders at all, but mites, Tetranychus urticae).

Don't panic! Formidable as they are, they are not invincible. With observation, perseverance and our natural "Made in Ardèche" solutions, we will help you save your jungle.

Part 1: Identification (How to Be Sure?)

Before launching the offensive, make sure it really is them.

1. The damage on the leaves: The first sign. You will see thousands of tiny white or yellow dots on the upper surface of the leaves. This is the result of their bites: they pierce the leaf to suck out the sap. The leaf takes on a dull, greyish or "powdery" look.

2. The signature: the webs: The unmistakable sign. Look under the leaves, in the leaf axils (where the leaf joins the stem) and at the tips of the branches. You will see extremely fine webs, much finer than those of a house spider.

3. The white paper test: Take a sheet of white paper, hold it under a suspect leaf and tap the leaf. You will see tiny "specks of dust" fall. Look closely: if some of these dots (often red, brown or black) start to move, you've got your answer.

Red spider mites' favourite plants: They love Calatheas, Marantas, Alocasias, crotons, ivies (Hedera) and Ficus.

Part 2: Why Me? The No. 1 Cause

In 90% of cases, the answer is simple: the air in your home is too dry.

Red spider mites thrive in hot, dry environments. Winter, with the heating on, is their favourite season. Air with less than 40% humidity is an open invitation to them.

Part 3: Natural Attack Plan: Eradication

A red spider mite infestation isn't sorted out in a day. It takes a shock treatment and consistency.

Step 1: Isolation (The Quarantine)

As soon as you confirm the infestation, separate the sick plant from all the others. Put it in another room (typically the bathroom) to avoid contagion. Inspect its immediate neighbours.

Step 2: The Shower (The Big Clean)

This is the most important step. Put your plant directly under the shower or in your bathtub.

• With a jet of water (not too strong, but effective), rinse the whole of the foliage meticulously.

• Pay particular attention under the leaves and along the stems to physically dislodge as many mites and webs as possible.

• You can even gently clean the leaves with a soft cloth soaked in diluted Jungle Feed Black Soap for a first cleansing, suffocating action.

Step 3: The Natural Shock Treatment (The Jungle Feed Solution)

Once the plant has drained (but is still damp), it's time to treat. Water alone isn't enough. We are going to use the most effective miticidal and suffocating combination.

Your magic potion (for 1 L):

1. In a 1-litre spray bottle, pour lukewarm (not hot) water.

2. Add 1 teaspoon of Jungle Feed Liquid Black Soap. It acts as an emulsifier for the oil and as a contact (suffocating) insecticide.

3. Add 1 teaspoon of Jungle Feed Neem Oil. It is a powerful natural miticide that disrupts their reproductive cycle.

4. Shake VERY HARD to emulsify the mixture properly.

Application:

• Spray generously over the whole plant.

• Don't miss ANY nook: under every leaf, on the stems, in the leaf axils, and even lightly on the surface of the compost. The plant should be dripping.

• Tip: Do this treatment in the evening, to stop the sun burning the oiled leaves.

Step 4: Consistency (The Secret to Success)

The life cycle of a red spider mite is very fast (7 to 14 days from egg to adult). You have killed the adults, but not (all) the eggs.

You must ABSOLUTELY repeat the treatment (Step 3) every 3 to 4 days for at least 2 weeks.

• Day 1: Shower + shock treatment

• Day 4: Shock treatment

• Day 7: Shock treatment

• Day 10: Shock treatment

• Day 14: Final inspection (and treatment if needed).

If you stop after a single application, they will come back.

Part 4: Prevention (For the Future)

Have you won the battle? Well done. Now let's win the war.

1. Humidity! Humidity! Humidity! It's your best weapon. Red spider mites HATE humidity. Increase the humidity around your sensitive plants:

   • Mist them very regularly (in the morning).

   • Stand them on beds of damp clay pebbles.

   • Group your plants together to create a microclimate.

   • Use an air humidifier.

2. Strengthen the plant. A healthy plant resists attacks better. Jungle Feed Horsetail Fermented Extract is your ally. Rich in silica, it strengthens the cell structure of the leaves, making them "harder" and difficult for mites to pierce.

   • Use: Dilute and apply as a foliar spray once a month in spring/summer.

3. Preventive cleaning. Once a month, give your sensitive plants a spray of your Neem Oil + Black Soap mixture, even when they're healthy. It's the best way to stop a new colony settling in.

Summary of the Fight

IDENTIFY: Tiny yellow dots on the leaves + very fine webs under the leaves.

CAUSE: Air too dry.

ATTACK PLAN:

1. ISOLATION

2. SHOWER (rinse thoroughly)

3. TREATMENT (Spray: 1 L water + 1 tsp Black Soap + 1 tsp Neem Oil)

4. REPEAT the treatment every 3–4 days for 2 weeks.

PREVENTION: Increase humidity + strengthen with Horsetail Fermented Extract.

You now have all the keys to protect your jungle. Over to you!